
Sarah Charles
Sarah is the Digital Editor of Coffee Intelligence. She is also principal co-author of the 4th Edition of the International Trade Centre's Coffee Guide and leads communications for its sustainable agribusiness programme. She has been writing about the coffee sector since 2019. She has an MSc in Sustainable Development from SOAS, and 15 years of experience in international development, including agricultural value chains.
All Work
Europe is often spoken of as a single market. Its coffee culture proves otherwise. 25 countries entered the Global Coffee Awards, exposing Europe’s wild flavour split. The EU drank 2.53 million tonnes of coffee last year, yet behaves like dozens of mini-markets with clashing tastes, rules and rituals. Experimental coffees dominated entries from Greece, France and Slovakia, while Ireland, Switzerland and Norway stuck to classic washed styles.
For decades, specialty coffee drinkers have prided themselves on purity: varietal, altitude and terroir expressed with minimal intervention. Many competition coffees now show adjunct-driven aromatics once labelled as “flavoured." 75% of young coffee drinkers in the UK opt for flavoured syrups. Why are some methods of flavour manipulation acceptable, but others considered inferior – and who decides?
Once satisfied with selling cola and fries, many quick-service restaurants (QSRs) now view drinks as high-margin opportunities and brand extenders – — from Chick-fil-A’s new Daybright brand to McDonald’s CosMc-inspired beverages. Taco Bell’s Live Más Café has sold 600 million drinks this year, with beverages now included in over 60% of its orders. With Gen Z flocking to drink-forward chains like 7 Brew and Dutch Bros, traditional QSRs are racing to join in.
Contracts are meant to provide enforceable certainty in an uncertain business. In coffee – a product whose price can swing up to or more than 40% in a year on the whim of weather, currency moves or speculative funds – certainty is a luxury buyers and sellers crave. Rigid “no-default” rules are exposing who truly carries the risk. Sustainability needs shared risk – up to 90% of value still bypasses coffee producers, undermining the supply chain they rely on.
Shanghai once drew its identity from tea. Today, it points to the future of coffee. Bloomberg recently anointed the metropolis “the world’s most compelling coffee city”, a title that would have seemed fanciful just a decade ago. With 9,115 cafés – more than London, New York or Tokyo – the city has become coffee’s most dynamic testing ground. China’s coffee consumption has grown by 150% in the last 10 years, reshaping global demand. Shanghai’s consumers prize customisation, community and design – a preview of where coffee culture is heading worldwide.
China, with its rapidly increasing coffee consumption, sheer scale, and flexible buyer profile has caught the attention of coffee traders worldwide. China’s coffee consumption has grown by 150% in the last 10 years. Green coffee traders are racing towards this opportunity, trying to break into this promising market. Imports from Brazil and Ethiopia are soaring – Brazilian coffee exports to China rose 186.1% year-on-year in 2023-24.
According to President Trump, “tariff is the most beautiful word in the dictionary.” But the repercussions for businesses and consumers worldwide have been drastic. Colombia faces the threat of higher tariffs and Nicaragua faces up to 100% duties, threatening entire export models. A new US–Vietnam deal would exempt coffee from a 20% headline tariff – accelerating the shift toward cheaper Robusta beans. US coffee costs are rising faster than food inflation, prompting lawmakers to block new tariffs on Brazil.
For years, large coffee conglomerates courted credibility by acquiring smaller specialty roasters. Big roasters are launching their own “indie” specialty brands instead of buying them, a shift led by giants like UCC, Lavazza, and Farmer Brothers. Nestlé acquired Blue Bottle in 2017 at a $700m valuation. Building micro-brands in-house avoids messy acquisitions, giving corporations mimicked authenticity at a fraction of the cost.
Caffè Nero has reported record first-quarter revenues of £166 million, up 9% year on year, fuelled by a 49% surge in iced-beverage sales. Starbucks says 75% of its global beverage sales now come from iced drinks. The UK had the highest iced coffee sales in Europe in 2024 and has seen a 22% compound annual growth in the past 5 years.
For decades, the global coffee trade has followed a familiar script. Traders in wealthy consumer markets held the purse strings, advancing funds to farmers and exporters to secure supply before harvest. But as inflation, tariffs, and credit tightening strain coffee companies, a curious reversal is emerging: farmers with access to capital are beginning to finance roasters. With coffee futures near record highs, cash-strapped roasters are turning to wealthier farmers for financing – reversing the usual flow of capital. In Latin America, farm loans can carry annual interest rates of up to 30%. This raises questions about whether producer credit to roasters is empowerment or hidden subsidy.
Colombia has reportedly closed its most productive coffee year in over three decades, producing some 14.87 million 60-kg bags, a rise of 17% over the prior cycle. But its 2025–26 harvest is forecast to contract by 5.3% due to heavy rains and the natural coffee cycle. WIth US tariffs on Brazilian coffee reshaping global supply chains, “tariff arbitrage” and alleged origin blending pose long-term challenges to market trust.
Coffee may bring customers through the door, but food has been increasingly paying the bills. Across America and Europe, coffee shops have bulked up their menus with salads, wraps and hot meals in a bid to shore up margins. The strategy has paid off so far, but suddenly seems less straightforward. In 2024, food contributed 23% of the chain’s total sales – or $6.7 billion – underscoring its growing role. Sandwiches boost ticket sizes, but staff, waste and slower service complicate the arithmetic.
In America, coffee culture is increasingly less about cafés and more about cars. Drive-thru coffee chains – Dutch Bros, 7 Brew, Biggby Coffee, Scooter's Coffee, and Black Rock Coffee Bar – are multiplying across the country at a rate that rivals fast-food franchises. A record 59% of US coffee purchases now happen at drive-thrus, up from 55% last year. 7 Brew’s sales surged 163% in 2024, while Dutch Bros’ stock jumped 64%. Nearly 3/4 of all US restaurant traffic is now off-premises, with cars doubling as both café and sanctuary for increasingly solitary consumers.
For a time, capsule coffee was the height of domestic sophistication. Nespresso’s sleek machines, marketed with George Clooney’s tailored designer suits, promised continental elegance at the push of a button. Among the affluent, low-key rituals have replaced flashy logos as the new luxury signal – but conspicuous consumption is back. 63% of millennials purchased luxury goods in 2024, of which 54% use them to display their wealth and accomplishments.
Starbucks once symbolised modern coffee culture: a “third place” between work and home, where consumers lingered over $4 caramel macchiatos and free Wi-Fi. Today, that model faces pressure. Same-store sales have slowed, and over 70% of consumers say they plan to visit less, citing high prices. Hundreds of stores are closing, senior executives are departing, and rivals like Dutch Bros are expanding as Starbucks’ share price falls. Efficiency measures, higher prices and job cuts coincide with the company’s continued emphasis on nostalgia and its “third place” identity.
Specialty coffee, with its emphasis on quality, traceability and ritual, is a curious fit for modern economies obsessed with speed and scale. In the US, specialty coffee is often marketing gloss for a culture focused on speed and scale. Starbucks built its empire on 2-minute drinks, yet third wave coffee culture thrives on time, patience, and quality. Europe has slower rhythms – and cafes continue to experience YOY growth, even as consumer purchasing power declines.
Coffee on American supermarket shelves is becoming increasingly less affordable for the average consumer. Ground coffee prices in US supermarkets surged almost 21% year-on-year in August, hitting a record $8.87 a pound, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. That marks the steepest rise since the 1990s. Tariffs on Brazil and Vietnam have turned America’s most essential import into a bargaining chip. Consumers are trading down, stockpiling, or even swapping to caffeine tablets.
In the United States, size has long signalled value. “Supersize me” was not just a McDonald’s slogan but a national mantra, visible in bottomless sodas and endless refills at diners. Jumbo-sized iced coffees – sometimes 32 ounces or more – are trending in America. With the effect of tariffs and high coffee prices, cafés may be stretching supply by bulking out drinks with milk, syrup and ice. The average US coffee serving is 2-3 times the size of a typical European one, reflecting America’s fixation with volume.
Every autumn, America undergoes the same ritual. Supermarkets stack cinnamon-scented candles, Instagram grids fill with orange foliage, and coffee chains roll out the pumpkin spice latte (PSL). Starbucks’ Pumpkin Spice Latte, first launched in 2003, is its most popular seasonal drink of all time. It drove a 24% jump in store visits on launch day last year. Even as tariffs push up costs of coffee and spices, Starbucks says 10% of sales now come from “returning favourites” like PSL.
For years, coffee’s giants have been cast as villains. Their dominance, critics argue, squeezes farmers, depresses quality, and cheapens a product whose cultural cachet has soared in the past two decades. Producer countries’ share of commercial retail coffee prices has barely budged in the last 20 years, even with prices declining. Meanwhile at the upper end of the specialty market, prices rose by more than 75% – to whose benefit? Big roasters often run on thin margins balanced by scale, while boutique specialty firms mark up heavily to cover small-operation costs.




















