- Coffee is central to Italian culture – but traditional espresso culture still dominates
- In 2018, Italy had 150,000 traditional coffee bars compared to only 100 specialty coffee shops
- But things are changing – younger people are pushing for slower, more mindful consumption
ITALY has long been the bastion of traditional coffee culture, where espresso is king, and the ritual of a quick shot at the local bar has remained largely untouched for generations.
However, a new wave of specialty coffee shops is emerging across the country, signalling a shift that seemed unimaginable not long ago.
These cafes are introducing Italians to single-origin beans, slow brewing methods, and a coffee experience more akin to the specialty scenes in European and Nordic countries.
In the 16th century, coffee made its way into Europe through the port of Venice, and by the 20th century, Italy had cemented its global reputation for coffee culture. The national obsession became centred around the espresso – cheap, fast, and intensely robust.
Today, around 70% of Italians consume espresso daily, making it the second most popular beverage after water.
Yet, this deeply ingrained tradition is beginning to shift. In recent years, a growing demand for higher-quality, traceable coffee has led to the emergence of specialty coffee shops. As recently as 2018, there were only 100 such establishments across Italy, dwarfed by the country’s 150,000 traditional coffee bars.
Since then, the number of specialty cafes has been on the rise, especially in the north.
Given Italy’s deep cultural ties to the espresso, the slow adoption of specialty coffee is unsurprising. However, the movement has gained momentum in cities like Milan and Bologna. When Starbucks entered the Italian market in Milan in 2018, it was a shock to the local coffee scene, signalling the beginning of a cultural shift.
Milan now hosts over a dozen specialty cafes, including Orsonero and Cafezal, offering light roast profiles and fruity tasting notes from European roasters like Dak in Amsterdam, alongside pastries that contrast with the traditional Italian fare.
Bologna, fueled by its large student population, has also seen a rise in specialty coffee shops like Forno Brisa, BURO, and Aroma Specialty Coffee. BURO’s menu, which includes all-day brunch options such as avocado toast and eggs, presents a distinctly non-Italian coffee experience, reflecting the ongoing transformation of the nation’s coffee culture.
“We can’t ignore the gradual rise of this more evolved style of coffee shop, which uses higher-quality products and employs skilled baristas who know how to enhance the flavours in the coffees they serve,” says Cristina Caroli, owner of Aroma Specialty Coffee.
“My husband, Alessandro Galtieri, and I have spent over twenty years striving to bring high-quality coffee to Bologna. We see this shift to specialty coffee as part of the very DNA of our café and the mission we set for ourselves long ago – to offer coffee as a premium beverage, defined by its diverse terroir characteristics.”
“Our goal has always been to give each customer the opportunity to choose a coffee that suits their personal taste or even the time of day.”
The clash between tradition and specialty coffee culture
Italy is the second-largest consumer of coffee in Europe, after Germany, importing 5.7 million 60kg bags of coffee in 2015 and consuming a staggering 14 billion espressos that year, accounting for 19% of all European coffee consumption.
Coffee is undeniably central to Italian culture, yet the long-standing tradition of fast, inexpensive espresso may be slowly fading as specialty coffee begins to take root.
While international chains like Starbucks account for only 10% of the Italian coffee market, independent cafés dominate the landscape, making up the remaining 90%. Italians have historically preferred their espresso dark, robust, and quick – drunk standing at the bar, with little regard for its origin or complexity.
“Italy is a country where coffee culture is deeply rooted in tradition,” says Cristina. “Espresso is the go-to for out-of-home consumption, while the Moka pot remains the most popular brewing method at home.”
This enduring tradition makes it challenging for new trends to take hold. However, a shift is emerging: two distinct coffee-drinking groups are forming – one loyal to the traditional espresso culture and another increasingly curious about global coffee varieties and specialty brews.
“Rome is definitely the city where the specialty coffee scene – both in dedicated coffee shops and in other food establishments – is expanding,” says Federico Lucas Pezzetta, the Italian creator behind CoffeeAndLucas.
“In fact, Rome will be hosting its first specialty coffee festival – FUTURA – this November. Over the last 2-3 years, the specialty coffee movement in Rome has really gained momentum.”
This growth in Rome reflects a broader trend in Italy, where the specialty coffee market is gradually finding its place alongside the country’s traditional espresso culture.
While specialty coffee remains a niche, it has attracted attention not only from small artisanal roasters but also from high-end and international brands seeking to capitalise on changing consumer preferences.
“Undoubtedly, the specialty coffee phenomenon has started to carve out a niche market where, in addition to small artisanal roasters, high-level brands, including multinational ones, have entered the field,” says Cristina.
“Many have created dedicated lines or brands featuring high-quality single origins. In supermarkets and large retail outlets, we now see single-origin coffee packages available for home consumption.”
This shift indicates that while Italy’s deeply rooted coffee traditions continue to hold sway, an increasing number of consumers are becoming more receptive to exploring diverse, higher-quality coffee experiences.
Will Italy’s youth reshape its coffee culture?
Change is not confined to northern Italy; it’s happening across the country. In Rome, the roastery Faro, which opened in 2017, views specialty coffee as a tool for understanding the world differently. Meanwhile, in Brescia, Agust, surprisingly founded in 1956, continually seeks ways to improve sustainability.
Starbucks’ entry into Italy has also played a role, helping to educate consumers about the origins of coffee and inspiring both Faro and Agust to establish academies that teach students about the nuances of coffee.
It’s this younger generation that is driving the specialty coffee movement in Italy. Gen Z has emerged as a key force behind the shift, placing greater emphasis on sustainability, transparency, and quality in their coffee choices.
These young adults, influenced by social media and technology, prefer to sip their coffee slowly and mindfully, often using cafés as places to study or work – departing from the fast espresso culture that has long dominated Italy.
“The younger generation is very open-minded about new ways of enjoying coffee, as well as the process and supply chain behind it,” notes Federico. “But even many older people, when they taste a specialty coffee, find that they like it.”
Florence is another city where specialty coffee is making inroads. With its large population of international students, there is a rising demand for coffee shops where people can work, linger, and enjoy a diverse menu.
Ditta Artigianale, founded in 2013, has become a leader in Florence’s specialty coffee scene, offering both traditional espresso and a range of filter coffees and lattes. Their cafes are often filled with students, patrons with laptops, and international travellers.
Yet, this transformation isn’t confined to the young. “At Aroma, clients come from all age groups, each eager to try something new and different, appreciating the experience of a well-crafted cup,” says Cristina.
While the shift toward specialty coffee is gradual, especially given Italy’s deeply entrenched coffee traditions, it’s happening.
With specialty coffee shops opening across the country and international influences seeping in, the movement is slowly but steadily gaining ground.
Coffee Intelligence
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